MY FAVORITE HAT!! THE GLORI-JAM!!

This became my favorite hat of all times I think.  It works up in a snap and is beautiful in all types of yarn!

My friend James Lee Kelley of the Hot off the Hook blog had made a beanie with this crown pattern.  I tested the pattern for him and decided I would like it a lot with a bit of a bill and a big old flower.  This is the hat that became I think the perfect blending of two minds!

The brown is the original hat but the coral hat has a different band version which I will include at the bottom!

                                                                Glori-Jam HAT
                                                          Designed and Written by: 

                                                  Gloria Clayton & James Lee Kelley 


MATERIALS: 
J – Hook for crown of hat 
H – Hook for trim and bill of hat 
#4 Worsted Weight Yarn 
Scissors 
Yarn Needle 

STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS USED: 
Bpdc = Back Post Double Crochet 
Ch = Chain 
Dc = Double Crochet 
Fpdc = Front Post Double Crochet 
MC = Magic Circle 
Sc = Single Crochet 

Sl St = Slip Stitch 

CROWN INSTRUCTIONS: Use a J - HOOK 

 

RND 1 – Magic Circle, Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), 12 DC in the 

Magic Circle. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first DC. 

(Total 12 DC) 

RND 2 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), work two (2) FPDC around 

the Ch2 and the first DC of previous Rnd, work two (2) BPDC around 

the next DC of previous Rnd, *work two (2) FPDC around the next DC 

of previous Rnd, work two (2) BPDC around the next DC of previous 

Rnd*, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in 

top of first FPDC. If you wish to change colors here you may do so by 

drawing the new color up as the yarn of the slip stitch and then 

crochet over the tail of it and the previous color to weave them in. 

(Total 24 Stitches)  

RND 3 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), Work two (2) DC in the 

same stitch as your slip stitch join, work one (1) DC next stitch, * 

work two (2) DC stitch, work one (1) DC next stitch*, Repeat between 

the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first DC. 

(Total 36 Stitches) 

RND 4 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), work one (1) FPDC around 

the Ch2 and the first DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around 

the next DC of previous Rnd, *work one (1) FPDC around the next DC 

of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous 

Rnd*, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in 

top of first FPDC. If you wish to change colors here you may do so by 

drawing the new color up as the yarn of the slip stitch and then 

crochet over the tail of it and the previous color to weave them in. 

(Total 36 Stitches) 

RND 5 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), Work two (2) DC in the 

same stitch as your slip stitch join, work one (1) DC in each of next 

two (2) stitches, * work two (2) DC next stitch, work one (1) DC in 

each of next two (2) stitches *, Repeat between the *s around. Join 

with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first DC. (Total 48 Stitches) 

RND 6 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), work one (1) FPDC around 

the Ch2 and the first DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around 

the next DC of previous Rnd, *work one (1) FPDC around the next DC 

of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous Rnd*, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in 

top of first FPDC. (Total 48 Stitches) 

RND 7 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), Work two (2) DC in the 

same stitch as your slip stitch join, work one (1) DC in each of next 

three (3) stitches, * work two (2) DC next stitch, work one (1) DC in 

each of next three (3) stitches *, Repeat between the *s around. Join 

with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first DC. (Total 60 Stitches) 

RND 8 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), work one (1) FPDC around 

the Ch2 and the first DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around 

the next DC of previous Rnd, *work one (1) FPDC around the next DC 

of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of previous 

Rnd*, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in 

top of first FPDC. (Total 60 Stitches) 

RND 9 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), Work one (1) DC in the 

same stitch as your slip stitch join, work one (1) DC in each stitch 

around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first DC. 

(Total 60 Stitches) 

RND 10 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), work one (1) FPDC 

around the Ch2 and the first DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC 

around the next DC of previous Rnd, *work one (1) FPDC around the 

next DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of 

previous Rnd*, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch 

[sl st] in top of first FPDC. If you wish to change colors here you may 

do so by drawing the new color up as the yarn of the slip stitch and 

then crochet over the tail of it and the previous color to weave them 

in. (Total 60 Stitches) 

RND 11 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), Work one (1) DC in the 

same stitch as your slip stitch join, work one (1) DC in each stitch 

around. Join with a Slip Stitch [sl st] in top of first DC. 

(Total 60 Stitches) 

RND 12 – Ch2 (does NOT count as a stitch), work one (1) FPDC 

around the Ch2 and the first DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC

around the next DC of previous Rnd, *work one (1) FPDC around the 

next DC of previous Rnd, work one (1) BPDC around the next DC of 

previous Rnd*, Repeat between the *s around. Join with a Slip Stitch 

[sl st] in top of first FPDC. (Total 60 Stitches) 

 

 

TRIM INSTRUCTIONS: Use a H - HOOK  

http://crochetkitten.blogspot.com/2012/11/crochet-stockinette.html

Behind your 2 loops there is a horizontal bar, to make rounds 2 

through 5 you will be working in this bar NOT in either front or back 

loop but behind them. After the 2nd row you will note the loops are 

pushed together to make a knit look. 

Rnd 1: Ch 1, hdc in same st as you joined in and 1 hdc in each st 

around, join with sl st in first hdc (60 hdc) 

 

Rnd 2 through 5: Ch1, hdc in back bar in same st as you joined in, 

hdc in back bar of each st around, (60 hdc) 

 

Rnd 6: sl st in back bar of each st around (60 sl sts) 

 

BRIM INSTRUCTIONS: Use a H - HOOK 

 

Row 1: Sl st in next st, sc in next 22 sts, sl st, turn. 

 

Row 2: Sl st in first sc , 1sc in next st, * 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st* 

sc, and sl st in last st, turn. 

 

Row 3: Sl st in first sc, 1 sc in each sc across, sl st in last sc. turn. 

 

Row 4: Repeat row 3. Fasten off and weave in ends. 

 

Re-attach your yarn to seam, sl st all the way around hat and brim. 

 

PUFF FLOWER INSTRUCTIONS: Use a J - HOOK 

 

Puff Stitch: Ch 3, yo, insert hook in same st and draw up a loop, 

repeat 2 more times in same st, yo place hook in next st and draw up 

a loop 3 times, yo and draw hook through all loops on your hook, ch 

3, sl st in same st. Sl st in next st. 1 puff made. 

 

With J hook make a magic circle and ch 1. 

Rnd 1: Make 12 scs in magic circle, join with a sl st to beginning sc, 

pull tail to close and weave in short end. 

 

Petals- Make 6 puff stitches and fasten off leaving a long tail to finish 

center of flower. 

 http://sublimestitching.com/pages/how-to-satin-stitch

Thread a long tail into a tapestry needle, sew back and forth across 

center of flower until a smooth surface is achieved. This is called a 

satin stitch.

Place your flower on the seam at brim of hat and take long stitches at 

the base of your petals to define each petal and attach the flower to 

your hat. 

Pull to back and finish off. Weave in end and cut yarn

          ********************TRIM FOR THE CORAL HAT*************************      

Instead of working in the back bar for the knit stitch follow same count of 60 stitches using scs and 8 rows.

If you enjoyed making this hat please leave a comment or question if you wish.

THE GOOD STUFF! CANNING TOMATOES

HOME CANNING * THE GOOD STUFF

Off to the veggie market I went today to make quite a nice haul.   Canned tomatoes for everything good this winter and peppers to pickle for a special request from my hubby.

We live on a lake in Texas but also our property is basically a big rock and we are in a stage 4 drought situation this year.  So no garden for me as long as I am here. At $5 a box at the market I cannot grow these beauties.  Our market gets lots of Texas grown fruit, melon and vegetables.

I was asked on my personal FB page how to go about canning so today I want to walk through this lovely and rewarding process.

Things you will need to make this work.

Clean quart or pint canning jars with no nicks or cracks.

Rings in good shape and new lids

A large hot water bath canner.  Always use a canner with the insert so that your jars do not sit directly on the pot bottom!!  Mine holds 7 quart or 7 pint jars.  

Sharp paring knife.

A large pot to heat water

Non-reactive bowls to peel your tomatoes in (please no plastic!)

Prepare you canning pot by filling about 3/4 full of water and 1/4 cup white vinegar.  Place on a slow fire to heat the water.

Get your water boiling in that other big pot and keep hot but not boiling.  Fill either a large bowl or your clean sink with cold water.

Use only firm, ripe tomatoes.  Place as many tomatoes as you can in the simmering water and leave about a minute.  Take them out into a bowl and transfer them to their cold water bath to cool.

Here I want to insert a little trick I used this year.  No matter how juicy my tomatoes are there is never enough to go around as you fill your jars.  Also I have looked for many years at all that lycopine going to waste in those peels we toss out!  I mean that is some good stuff for our bodies!  So as I peeled my tomatoes I saved the peels and tossed the stem ends in the trash.  I put my peels in my Ninja (blender) and let them liquefy.  Poured them into a sieve and squished out all the good stuff, with very little waste!!  As I filled the jars I poured this juice in with the tomatoes.

When the tomatoes are cool enough to handle cut out the stems and pull the peels off. You can leave your tomatoes whole or cut in halves or quarters.

In your quart jars add 1 teaspoon salt or 1/2 teaspoon for pints.  Pack the tomatoes to about 1/2 inch of the top, pressing to fill in spaces.  (If you rescued your lycopine with the juice now is the time to add a bit with each jar to get to that 1/2 inch space)  Do not add water!  ( If you are on a sodium restricted diet leave out the salt!)  

With a clean damp cloth wipe the tops of each jar.   Place a lid and on each and tighten the rings on. Be sure they are not loose!

Put your jars in the canner with the lids just covered in water.  Bring your water quickly to a boil (212* F) with the lid on.  Now turn the fire down until your water is gently boiling.

Quart jars process 45 minutes.   Pint jars process 35 minutes.

Turn off the fire.

Lift your jars out with a jar lifter and place on a clean, DRY, towel.  If you set the hot jars on anything cool or wet they will break or explode.  I know this by terrible experience with an exploding jar of peaches!! Ouch is not the word!

If you have 7 jars listen for 7 pings/pops!  This means your tomatoes have sealed as they cool.  After about an hour push down on the tops, if there are any that bounce back this means they did not seal.  Put these in the refrigerator and use right away.

Now you have some delicious goodies for the winter.  Until next time my friends!

Gloria

Period of Purple Crying

I recently came across a wonderful project for crazy crocheters like myself.  I love to make and donate baby hats for many reasons.  I have no children or grandchildren that are babies but still have the desire to make all the pretties for little ones.  My babies Odean and Ernestine decided they would model some for me today.

The Period of Purple crying project is bringing the shaken baby syndrome to our attention in a wonderful way.  Here is the link  http://www.clickforbabies.org/ to read all about it.

Myself and a few others are gathering our caps together to send.   In honor of this project I wrote a sweet little pattern that is quick to make.  It is also warm as they requested.  Before sending I will be making a crochet heart to stitch to each hat.  I love the Love Heart patterns at PlanetJune so here is the link to her easy hearts  http://www.planetjune.com/blog/free-crochet-patterns/love-hearts/.  And all the hearts for the hats will be a color of purple as the hats must be at least 50% purple.

I had a ton of purple yarn that was not as soft as I wanted for this project and a purple yarn that was not as thick as I wanted so I joined them for the perfect marriage for this little hat.

Please read entire pattern before beginning. 

     Purple Ziggidy Hat.
2 strands of yarn throughout. I used Red Heart Shimmer, it seems to be lighter weight than regular worsted or baby yarn or sport weight.  The other can be any worsted yarn, I used Red Heart Super Saver Purple.
J hook
Tapestry Needle
* to * ---repeat
Special Stitches
Front Post Double Crochet
Back Post Double Crochet
BLO = work in back loop of previous stitch only

http://craftdisasters.blogspot.com/2011/11/stitch-tutorial-fpdc-bpdc.html


Holding both strands of yarn together make a Magic Circle (or ch 4 and sl st to form ring)

Rnd 1:  Ch 2 (never counts as a stitch in this pattern), make 12 dcs in ring, gently pull tail to close, sl st into first dc (not the ch 2).   12 dcs

Rnd 2:   Ch2, 1 dc in join, 2 dcs in each dc around, 1 dc in st directly behind the ch 2.  Join with a sl st in first dc.   24 dcs

Rnd 3:   Ch 2, 1 dc in join, 1 dc in next st,  *2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st*, repeat around, 1 dc in st directly behind the ch 2, sl st in first dc to join.   36 dcs

Rnds 4/8:   Ch 2, 1 dc in join, 1 dc in each st around, sl st to first dc to join.  36 sts.

Turn your hat so that the inside is facing you and you are going to work the other direction,

Rows 8/10:  Ch 2, work *1 fpdc around first dc in the blo, 1 bpdc in next st*, join in first fpdc with a sls st.

Drop the heavier worsted yarn and cut leaving a 3 to 4 inch tail.

Row 11:   Working over the tail make 1 sc in join, *ch 1, sc in next st* repeat around and sl st to first sc.

Finished! 

Tips and notes of explanation:

I use the ch 2 at the beginning of my hat rounds to help cover that pesky gap between the beginning and end. I also use that last st behind that ch 2 for the same reason.  It seems to me the gap between the two is more obvious in the increase rows of a hat because there is no real stretch there. Any questions or comments are welcome!


I will post all the hats with their hearts attached when they are ready to ship.

A beginning!

I have been wanting a blog of my own for a while now.  Just needed to gather my skirts and pull up my boots and get on with it.  


My first love is crochet but you will find here food, gardening, furniture refurbishing and all manner of tidbits!  Free crochet patterns and original recipes coming soon.  Hope you will enjoy being here friends! 

Here, deep in the heart of Texas it is beginning to get pretty toasty.  Though if we don't get a break all this wind is going to remove our hats and send them to Oklahoma!

I created this hat from a new yarn (for me) called 5th Avenue Coastal Cotton.  It is a blend of cotton and acrylic (51/49%).  Love, love, love it.  Cool, smooth, and light!  I write many of my patterns but was smitten by this one called the Ashmar hat!  The rolled roses and beads gave it that just right bit of bling! 

The Ashmar hat pattern can be found at Snappy Tots!  Yep, I always thought of them as a childrens pattern stop but this beauty fooled me!